Registan, Samarkand

Registan, Samarkand tickets and tours: which one to book

The Registan is an open public square framed by three madrasas, and you can see the facades from the edge of the square or the viewing area along the main road without paying anything. To walk onto the square and into the three courtyards and the gilded mosque you need a single ticket, sold at the booth by the entrance; it is valid for the whole ensemble, and there is usually an extra charge if you want to return for the evening illumination. The tours sold online are built around timing and experience rather than access. Some run first thing in the morning, before the groups arrive, and finish with breakfast in a nearby teahouse.

Others take place after dark, when the madrasas are floodlit, and include a stroll and a local treat. There are photo sessions with a professional photographer, often with a traditional costume, and city day tours that combine the Registan with the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum, the Bibi-Khanym mosque, the Siab bazaar and the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis. Most include the guide but not the entry tickets, so check before booking. A guide is worthwhile here mainly for the history of Ulugh Beg and his observatory, and for reading the calligraphy and the symbolism of the tilework, which is hard to decode alone.

Visiting Registan, Samarkand: what to see and how to behave

The square was the commercial and ceremonial heart of Samarkand under the Timurids, the place where proclamations were read and executions held. The three madrasas facing it were built over two centuries and form one of the great architectural ensembles of the Islamic world. On the left is the oldest, the Ulugh Beg Madrasa of 1417 to 1420, built by Timur's grandson, the astronomer-ruler who taught here himself; its tilework is dominated by star patterns, a nod to his interest in astronomy. Facing it across the square is the Sher-Dor Madrasa, finished in 1636, whose portal shows two striped tigers chasing deer with human-faced suns rising on their backs, a rare depiction of living creatures in Islamic decoration.

Between them, on the north side, stands the Tilla-Kari Madrasa of the mid-17th century, which also served as the city's main mosque; step inside its prayer hall to see the walls and dome lavishly covered in gold leaf. Look for the slight lean of the minarets, several of which were straightened by Soviet engineers in the 20th century, and for the old student cells around each courtyard, now mostly craft and souvenir shops. The site functions as a monument rather than a working mosque, so there are no restrictions on non-Muslims, but dress modestly and remove hats in the prayer hall. The Registan lies in the centre of Samarkand, a short walk from the Gur-e-Amir and along the pedestrian street towards Bibi-Khanym.

Registan, Samarkand: opening hours, ceremonies and the best time to go

The ensemble is open daily from morning until early evening, with later hours in summer, and the floodlighting after dark can be seen from the square's edge. The first hour after opening gives the emptiest courtyards; late afternoon brings warm light on the Sher-Dor facade, which faces west, while the Ulugh Beg portal is lit best in the morning. Spring, from April to early June, and autumn, from September to October, are the ideal seasons. July and August are very hot, with temperatures often above 35 degrees, and winters are cold and grey.

Navruz, the spring new year on 21 March, brings celebrations to the city, and every second year the Sharq Taronalari music festival stages concerts on the square itself in late summer, when access may be restricted. Allow two hours for the three madrasas, and return in the evening for the lights. A full day in Samarkand pairs the Registan with the Gur-e-Amir, Bibi-Khanym, the Siab bazaar and Shah-i-Zinda, all within walking distance or a short taxi ride.